HDS 42XR

The HDS 42XR is a pocket LED flashlight that sits right at the cutting edge of flashlight technology.

The world of pocket flashlights has literally exploded in the last few years as advances in LED technology have left the incandescent lamps looking very much like last year’s news. LED is the future of flashlights for two excellent reasons:

1. LED lamps last considerably longer than incandescent lamps, which can burn out or break if the light is dropped onto a hard surface. And LED lamp can burn for many thousands of hours before it dies and most well-made lights with LED lamps will survive a drop from a reasonable height. The same cannot be said of incandescent lamps.

2. LED lamps use considerably less power than incandescent lamps. You can now have a flashlight that will run for several hours on a single battery, be it AAA, AA, CR2 or CR123a, for a considerable saving.

About the only ‘downside’ of LED lamps is that they sometimes have a discernible tint. In other words, you don’t get a pure white light. It may have a slight green tint, or violet perhaps. However, most of the top manufacturers (and HDS is certainly one of them) offer LEDs that are to all intents and purposes, as white as any incandescent lamp.

As a result of this technology, there are several dozen manufacturers now making flashlights, many of which offer an extraordinary amount of light in a tiny package.

One such manufacturer is HDS, a small company little known outside of flashlight aficianado circles based in Arizona, USA. HDS specialise in single cell CR123a lights that offer several different output levels.

Although HDS are busy refining their range and the light under review has actually been discontinued, at the time of writing they offer two versions of their single cell lights: the HDS 42 and the HDS 60. The numbers refer to the lumen output of the light. The 42 gives out 42 lumens and the 60, 60 lumens. That’s the easy part. From there it gets complicated (one of the reasons they are trimming the numbers – too many models). The 42 range currently comprises the 42, which is the entry level model, the 42 XR (which stands for Extra Runtime) the 42GT, which stands for Guaranteed Tint (for those who have to have a pure white light) and the 42 GTXR, which is a combination of the two.

In the HDS 60 range, you get the 60 Basic and the 60 Ultimate. The 60 Basic is the same as the 42, except it offers an output of 60 lumens. The Ultimate series is a whole other ballgame. Here you can program the light to do a number of different functions, including turning itself off and on, strobe rapidly, and a number of others that I can’t get into right now (largely because I can’t remember them).

But this review concerns the HDS 42 XR, so let’s get into it.

First impressions of the HDS light is its size. The light will fit comfortably into the average man’s palm. More specifically, it measures 3,3 inches (8cms) in length and 1 inch (2,4cms) across. It is constructed of Hard Anodized III aircraft aluminium, which means it is pretty darn tough. All the best quality flashlights are made of HAIII, including the Surefire range. Three quarters of the body is knurled to create a nice grippy surface. The light also has a ‘waist’ which extends just past the half-way mark to about 1 centimetre from the end, where it becomes smooth. This is to allow for a better grip on the light. The surface features an anodized finish in a steel grey colour that is all business. It is immediately obvious that this is one serious light.

The only other component to the light is a spring steel clip with a matte black finish that secures to the body with two fairly substantial Philips head screws, also black. The clip complements the torch nicely and is a sturdy, well-made device that allows you to attach the light to your belt or in your pocket. A lanyard ring can also be placed on the light if you so choose. However, the lanyard ring is a separate accessory that must be purchased for an additional $10. There are several more HDS accessories that can be purchased but we’ll discuss those later.

The HDS 42XR is powered by a single CR123a lithium battery. These short, fat little chaps are expensive when you buy them from a normal brick and mortar store but can be had for a far more reasonable sum online (visit lighthound.com or batterystation.com and they’ll take care of ya!). I got ten free ones when I bought my HDS (from Battery Station), so I’m sorted for the moment ; ) The HDS is a regulated light, which means it will suck the maximum amount of juice out of the battery before dying out gracefully. It won’t just die out immediately, however, the light will signal its intentions by blinking twice in rapid succession.

The single cell power source has allowed the manufacturer to reduce the size of the light and indeed this is one of the HDS42’s great benefits. It is truly a pocket light that can be tucked away on your person and forgotten about, until the time comes when you need a source of bright white light, that is. At the moment, I carry mine in a Maxpedition 4 inch tube sheath. I have space in the sheath for a spare CR123, which I keep inside a little plastic baggie. I could carry the light in my pocket or clipped onto my belt but my pockets are already full of other goodies and I wouldn’t want the light to get knocked off my belt. In the sheath it is both secure and protected from random knocks.

Now, there are several single cell LED lights available on the market, most of which are considerably cheaper than the HDS. Ones I looked at included the PEAK LED Carribbean (which got a 5 star review at the excellent website flashlightreviews.com). Admittedly, the Carribbean was $5 more than the price I paid for the HDS, but the HDS is on clearance (I bought it for $95, it normally sells for $140). I also considered the Huntlight FT-02X, Longbow Micra, Surefire EL1, Amilite Neo-T3, and Fenix P1, among others (like I said, the market has exploded). However, none of these lights, although all very capable, has the real secret weapon that made the HDS so irresistable: variable brightness settings. FOUR settings, no less!

That’s right, you can adjust your HDS light according to your own personal preference/circumstances. When you push the rubber button at the tail end of the light, the primary mode comes on. This is the second brightest setting, and it is plenty of light for most purposes. However, if you find yourself in a dark alley one night and something is moving near the trashcans and you really want to see what it is, you simply have to press the rubber nipple twice rapidly, and once slowly to get the light to push out its maximum amount of lumens. I say simply, but that’s not really the case. It takes a fair amount of practice to get the brightest level to kick in. In their manual, HDS describe it as a click-click-press action (two short clicks followed by a long press) but it’s a lot easier to SAY than it is to DO.

Which doesn’t make the HDS 42 XR the best choice if you want a tactical light. In other words, one that will deliver maximum brightness at the touch of rubber nipple. Under stress, odds are on that you will not master this sequence. I could barely master it in a fully relaxed mode, let alone creeping-around-outside-the-house-at-3am-because the-wife-heard-someone-outside-the-window mode. However, HDS have anticipated this by offering the HDS60 LE model. The LE standing for Law Enforcement (who really NEED a tactical light). With this model the light comes on at maximum brightness as soon as you press the aforementioned nipple.
So the HDS 42XR is not a true tactical light. For that, I would recommend the 60LE model or one of the broad range of Surefire lights (I use the 6P myself, but that’s another story).

That aside, the various settings of the HDS are really a terrific feature. The primary mode offers a useful amount of light that is perfectly adequate for most tasks (even creeping around outside the house at 3am). The other settings are also useful, although I’m not sure if four settings is really necessary. Three would have been great. I use the primary setting mostly, and the lowest setting is excellent when you have to get up in the night to use the john or get a glass of water from the fridge and don’t want to kick the furniture and wake up the household with your curses. I imagine it would also be great when reading a map at night in the jungle or signalling your transport chopper that’s its time to go but I don’t get to do that as often as I used to, so finding a glass of water in the middle of the night will have to do for now.

Apart from the handy size and variable settings, the other great feature of the HDS is that it’s truly waterproof. Up to 2 atmospheres according to the manufacturers. This is pretty darn deep and is a truly useful fact to know if you are a person who works around boats at night a lot. All joking aside, a waterproof flashlight is a great thing and it was one of the deciding factors for me when I finally made a decision to go with this light.

There is a great deal of highly technical information available on this flashlight that can be obtained from the HDS website hdssystems.com if you are that way inclined. I am not, so I won’t go into it here. Suffice to say that the HDS is a light with an extremely enthusiastic following among flashlight aficianados (yes, such people do exist), similar to that displayed by users of Surefire’s products. I have found the HDS 42XR to be extremely well-made, very functional, and a truly cool little light that delivers four settings of light at the push of a button. Just remember: its click-click-pressss ; ) 5/5

Atwood Prybaby XL

This is an interesting little item that I first came across when browsing the excellent TADgear.com site. (Seriously, for gearheads, this place is nirvana, so check it out ASAP.)

Peter Atwood is a guy with a passion (or rather obsession) for EDC items. For the uninitiated, EDC stands for Every Day Carry. Peter gets a huge kick out of useful objects that you can slip into your pocket. They appeal to him because they are always there with you, as opposed to back in the tool shed or in the tool box.

So obsessed did Peter become that he started to design his own EDC items. Today, he has several of them, but this review concerns what many would consider his most popular item: the Prybaby.

Apart from the really cool name, the Prybaby is just a great idea. It's designed primarily to be a pocket pry tool, and the thinking behind it is that instead of reaching for your expensive folding knife when you need to pry something loose, reach for your Prybaby instead.

But Peter decided to add some other functions to his tool, and cleverly incorporated a bottle opener, wire stripper and screwdriver into the mix as well. Perhaps the most appealing thing about the whole concept is its size. The Prybaby measures a total of 8cm by 2,5cm, so it's discreet enough to carry on a keychain or in your pocket, no matter how you dress for work.

I keep mine on the end of a complicated set-up that involves a carabiner, a bit of knotted paracord, a fishing swivel and a small split ring, but that's me. These things are so compact you can literally stash them anywhere. Bear in mind, though, the idea is to keep them on your person.

The other great thing about the Prybaby and other Atwood items is the excellent build quality. Each one is handmade by Peter out of S30V steel and then blasted a matte grey and stamped with the Atwood logo. The finishing touch is a short loop of black paracord with a fancy knot in it that goes through the lanyard hole.

There are several variations on the Prybaby, including the standard model, the XL, the mini and a damasteel mini, which is just gorgeous. Being a practical bugger, I got the XL (it's no bigger than the standard - XL stands for extra leverage), which offers a bit more leverage for those prying jobs over the standard model. It also has a cool wavy bit on the top section just behind the pry forks to give you extra grip. I think it adds to the overall aesthetic appeal as well.

Speaking of which, the overall fit and finish of the piece is simply superb. The bead blasting is even and very smooth. There are no blemishes to the finish, no inconsistencies in the design. Even the little bit of paracord is neatly finished so that it won't fray.

The professionalism displayed in the finished product is echoed by the man himself. The experience of dealing with Peter is a real pleasure. I cannot over-emphasise how important this is for me. He gets back to you promptly and does exactly what he says he will do. What a rare thing in today's world. He is also quite willing to share his creative process, and does so on an informative and entertaining blog.

I have no doubt in my mind that the Prybaby will prove a robust and highly durable tool. It is built like a tank out of the highest quality tool steel you can get. It will probably outlast me by many years.

I also have Peter's tactical whistle that is turned out of solid brass and his six inch pry bar - the Bug Out Bar - is on its way. When that arrives I will do a review of it as well, but I am certain it will be a winner for the same reasons I have outlined above.

So for originality, usefulness, build quality and all-round buying experience, I can confidently give the PryBaby XL a 4/5. The only reason I'm not giving it full marks, is I haven't yet had a chance to put it properly through its paces, so watch this space.

Apologies for not having any pics of the item in question, I hope to add pics to this site soon. If you want to check it out and Peter's other items, visit www.phlaunt.com/atwoodknives/ For more opinions on Peter's work from people who use his tools every day, check out EDCforums.com.

Alpha Industries CWU/45P

Alpha Industries is a legendary name in the milspec arena and has been a consistent supplier to the US military since the early 1950s.

They first came to prominence in the post WWII era, where the call came down to develop a lighter, less bulky version of the fleece-lined leather ‘bomber’ jackets that pilots wore to keep out the cold. The new jets being developed were reaching far greater heights and any water or perspiration would be likely to freeze on the leather, adding considerable weight to the jacket and creating all sorts of problems for the wearer.

The new material that was chosen to replace leather was nylon, a relatively recent invention that offered the strength and warmth that such a garment demanded, combined with a considerably lighter weight.

The design that emerged was first designated B-15, and was very similar to that of the design which directly followed it - the MA-1 – except that the B15 had a mouton fur collar. After a few years, the collar was changed and the MA-1 as we know it took its place.

A true classic that is still an icon among followers of milspec design, the MA-1’s ribbed, knit cuffs and collar, indian orange lining and cigarette sleeve pocket design defined the look of the nylon flight jacket forever.

Their MA1 jacket is an enduring classic that continues to be popular, both with airforce personnel and civilians, five decades after they were first issued. However this review concerns the current version of the MA-1, the CWU-45P.

The CWU-45P was first issued in 1973 after specifications called for a jacket utilising a fire-retardent fabric (which nylon obviously is not). The design developed by Alpha featured the Nomex fire-resistant fabric and had several other distinct differences to the MA-1. Althought the Nomex version is available to the general public, its prohibitive price means that the nylon ‘civilian’ version is the overwhelming choice for most people.

There were other changes as well. The jacket now featured two large, ‘map-style’ pockets on the front, similar to that of the classic A-2 leather flyer’s jackets made popular during world war II. There was no side entry to the pocket, largely because airforce personnel are not encouraged to stand around with their hands in their pockets. The pockets feature a flap that is secured by velcro tabs and are roomy enough to store fairly large objects.

The other fundamental changes were the inclusion of a standard folded collar of the same nylon as the rest of the jacket, as opposed to the short knitted collar of the MA-1. The lining of the CWU-45P is also quilted, and the same colour as the jacket, with the indian orange lining going the way of the dinosaur. Presumably, modern pilots have more sophisticated ways of making contact with search and rescue personnel. One would also imagine that if they went down in hostile territory, they would prefer not to stand out like sore thumbs.

The cigarette pocket on the left sleeve is still there, as are the famous ‘bullet’ pen caps. There is one extra inner pocket sewn onto the left lining. The Alpha Industries label is sewn onto the back of the inside lining of the jacket, centrally positioned directly below the collar. There is another specification label lower down, which is the same colour as the jacket. The little Alpha ‘flag’ is still there on the cigarette pocket. Mine also came with a red nylon tag attached to the cigarette pocket zipper that reads ‘detach before flying’, a nice touch.

Colour options include black, navy blue, sage and gun metal. Mine is in the classic sage. The quality of the product is quite superb. All the stitching is precise and there are no stray threads to be seen. The nylon is undoubtedly of the finest quality and features the trademark sheen of a genuine Alpha Industries jacket, much like an otter’s fur when it is slick with water. The other distinctive ‘feature; is the rouged effect of the nylon on the stitched seam, which also is a characteristic of the genuine Alpha product.

The reference to ‘genuine’ Alpha Industries is not made casually. This jacket has been copied and pirated the world over and it is definitely a case of ‘buyer beware’ when you are looking around for one. The design is such an enduring classic (especially the MA-1) that it is knocked off in the thousands in the far east and has found favour around the globe, particularly among security industry types and the skinhead factions (the military connection obviously appeals to both). Do not take a chance when you buy yours. Visit the Alpha Industries website (google will help you get there) and they will direct you to authorised Alpha retailers. There are many, so procuring yourself the real article will not be a problem.

What exactly is it about this design that has made it such an enduringly popular choice among appreciators of functional clothing? Well, for one thing, the CWU-45P is damned stylish. The purely functional design means there is nothing there that shouldn’t be there and the overall effect is that of a jet fighter – sleek, trim and ready for anything that comes its way.

Secondly, it fulfils the purpose for which it was created: keeping the wearer warm. So many leather jackets, though stylish, fail miserably to keep you warm when the weather gets seriously chilly. The design of the jacket, with the ribbed waist and cuffs, is intended to retain body heat, and it does exactly that, without the heavy weight and water vulnerability of leather.

The main question really, is whether you prefer the classic MA-1, or the more modern version? It depends whether you find the Spitfire more glamourous than the F-18 – it’s a personal preference. Mine is for the CWU-45P. I prefer the nylon collar over the knitted version of the MA-1, which I find can be a little too warm on those days when you’re not strolling about in an actual blizzard. On the flipside, you do miss the handy pockets of the MA-1 (hey, I’m not in the airforce), although the map-style pockets of the CWU-45P are better structured to retain their contents and will hold a lot more.

To be honest, these jackets are so awesome, it’s worth owning both styles, and throw in a N3-B parka for those Siberia trips while you’re at it. All in all the CWU-45P is a true classic, proven in the field of battle, and therefore deserves a righteous 5/5.

Colt .45 ACP Government Model Series 70

It’s a tough job reviewing a legend, but I’m gonna have a crack at it anyway. I’m by no means an expert, but I have owned a few handguns over the years, and this is the only one I own now, which should tell you something about it.

Whether or not choosing the Colt as my only handgun was a wise decision is another matter (I suspect most of my shooting colleagues would have opted for the Glock 22, but that’s another story). However, the truth is, I kept the Colt because it is unique – a customised piece that was rebuilt to my specifications, and thus has a fair amount of my blood, sweat and tears engrained within it’s workings. It was also the most aesthetically pleasing of all my pistols.

The Colt .45 is of course, one of the most enduring handguns in the world. In the United States, it enjoys an almost fanatical cult status among handgun nuts. People will pay many thousands of dollars for a customised 1911 from one of the big name gunsmiths. It even has an entire magazine dedicated to it (step forward, American Handgunner). The reason for this is not hard to understand, it was invented by an American, John Moses Browning, and the gun-owning segment of the American population is nothing if not patriotic.

However, I suspect that its appeal also comes from another area: the calibre for which it was designed. The .45 ACP (which stands for Automatic Colt Pistol) is a real brute of a bullet. At 230 grains it’s the heaviest handgun slug going (bar the handgun hunting calibres) and as such travels below the speed of sound. But if you place your shots in the central mass area, chances are your target will go down, and stay down. Few areas in firearms are as contentious as ballistics, but the consensus among the grizzled vets is that .45ACP is the way to go if you’re fairly confident of your ability to hit what you are aiming at.

(All right, I know this is not a proven fact, but I believe it to be true. The 9mm is a marginal stopper at best, and needs to be pushed at extreme speeds to really be effective; the 10mm is not practical with regards to availability of ammo and choice of firearms that will take it, and the 40 S&W is still too new to really be in the running. Likewise, .357 Sig is still a marginal player. For me then, the title of ultimate semi-auto calibre still belongs to the .45ACP.)

The calibre’s reputation as a manstopper meant it was the number one choice among serious handgunners in the US of A for many years (the most popular side-arm however, was – and possibly still is – the Smith and Wession five shot revolver in.38 Special). However, it took a serious knock in status when America’s armed forces adopted the Beretta 92 in 9mm as its official side-arm in the mid-80s. The arrival in the mid-90s of the .40 S&W has also eroded its popularity. For many, the .40S&W features the ideal combination of speed and weight - like the 9mm and .45ACP rolled into one - and as a result it was quickly adopted by a majority of police forces in the large metropolitan cities throughout the United States.

However, for many the .45ACP cannot be replaced, and there are a great many who still prefer the proven qualities of this calibre. And what better vehicle to deliver it than the Colt Government Model? After all, it is said that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and no other design has been issued by so wide a variety of manufacturers.

So where, exactly, does the appeal lie? In all honesty, it’s a difficult thing to put on paper. First of all, this is a handgun that fits the hand like no other. It’s relatively slim, thanks to the single stack mag, and if you have medium sized hands, as I do, it will feel as if it was custom made for you. However, in every other respect, it’s a real pig straight out of the box. As any 1911 aficianado knows, this is a gun that requires a considerable amount of work to get it up to scratch.

Although this process requires plenty of time, money and effort (gunsmiths are among the most difficult people you will ever meet), I believe this customisation aspect – which is unique to the 1911 - is exactly what appeals to people.

In fact, a veritable industry has sprung up around the Gov’t Model. Led by companies like Wilson Combat and Ed Brown, there are at least a dozen firms in the USA who manufacture parts for the 1911 pistol. In fact, you can make one up entirely from scratch, if you so wish. It’s like building a hotrod entirely to your own specifications. This is, of course, is a highly appealing concept to the gun community, who tend to be strongly individualistic people anyway.

However, there are still many out there who believe that the Colt Series 70 was the finest version of this design - at least as a platform to build on. Why exactly this is remains something of a mystery to me. Certainly from a historical point of view Colt were the premier makers of this firearm, and they make particularly fine handguns (the Colt Python is undoubtedly the Rolls Royce of revolvers) but I suspect it is one of those bits of verbal lore that are handed down from person to person until it is just accepted as the gospel and nobody will even bother arguing with it. In a country like the USA, however, where you have the pick of any number of .45s, people like Springfield Armoury, Les Baer, Ed Brown, Wilson Combat and Kimber would probably all take precedence over Colt today.

However, in the heyday of combat sports shooting, the 70s, there was no better gun to build a good combat on that a Colt Series 70. They’re also quite common still in my part of the world, and I was fortunate enough to find one without too much trouble. Mine was in nice condition, and already had the most important work done to it. The feeding ramp had been nicely polished, the ejection port was lowered, and a set of high profile sights had replaced the standard sights, which are practically worthless. It also had a pretty good blueing job on it, although nothing like the beautiful mirror polish that you have on the Colt when it comes out of the factory.

If I had any sense, I would have left it like that (perhaps just replacing the grips) and it would have served me faultlessly for many years. However, I was quite short of common sense in those days and I saw the gun merely as a blue print onto which I was going to place my unique stamp. And so off I went. I cannot remember what I actually changed first, but this is how I ultimately transformed my Colt:

The rear sight was replaced with a Novak low profile ‘carry’ sight, and a terrific sight it is too.

The standard safety grip was replaced with an Ed Brown ‘memory groove’ beavertail. Again, a significant improvement (in my eyes).

The hammer was also changed to an Ed Brown design, and as such complements the beavertail nicely, although it offers no noticeable improvement over the standard Colt hammer.

The trigger was replaced by a Wilson-made device of aluminium. However, I wasn’t entirely happy with the job and despite adjusting it since, to this day the trigger feels a little light to me.

The standard Colt safety was replaced by an Ed Brown ‘tactical’ safety. Again, the visual effect was enhanced but the standard safety on the Colt is actually entirely adequate.

A lovely pair of Wilson ebony grips were a significant improvement over the cheapie rubber ones that the gun came with, as were the Ed Brown stainless hex head grip screws that set them off nicely.

Finally, I had a local gunsmith finish the piece off with a really nice nitrolloy coating on the receiver and a matte black teflon finish on the slide. At the same time, he tidied up the bevelling on the mag well - which another gunsmith had made a bit of a mess of - and a very nice job he did too.

It didn’t end there, however, as a vital component of any handgun is the magazine, so I got onto Brownells and ordered myself a brace of Wilson-Rogers no. 47 stainless steel 8 round magazines, generally acknowledged as the finest in the business.

All in all, I must have spent at least the same amount again on the gun as my initial outlay (actually, I suspect it was significantly more, but I stopped counting after awhile - on purpose). Does the gun shoot any better than it did originally? I would say probably not, but it sure as hell looks better, and that counts for a lot, believe me.

So, you may ask, after all this work, is this the ultimate carry gun? Well, no.

First of all, it weighs a ton. The whole thing is made of stainless steel. Not aluminium, or plastic. Good old-fashioned steel, brother. Dug from the earth by hard-drinking men with dirt under their fingernails. And when you combine that with a magazine filled with 45 slugs, it’s a substantial weight. Which is great if you intend shooting thousands of rounds through the thing, but not so great if you’re planning on carrying it regularly. The weight thing never used to be such an issue, of course, as ALL guns were made of steel, until the Glock company changed everything. Now, you could have your cake, in the form of major firepower, and eat it too, by carrying a gun that is remarkably light, in comparison to the all-steel piece. The Glock turned the whole handgun industry on its head, and despite initial resistance, everyone – from Walther to Sig Sauer and even good old Bill Wilson – now offers a handgun with a polymer receiver.

Second, it has a standard magazine capacity of seven rounds. Fortunately, the smart fellas have managed to squeeze another round into the aftermarket magazines, but even so, eight rounds doesn’t seem like much when you consider that the Glock 17 has an incredible 17 rounds in the mag (hence the moniker), albeit of 9mm.

Fourth, it’s single action only. Which means that if you want to carry one in the chamber, you only have the choice of cocking the hammer and placing the safety on. You can’t fire from a hammer down position, like your Berettas and Sig Sauers. So when you think you hear something moving in that dark corner and you drop that safety and your heart starts going like a trip hammer as your mouth dries up and your vision tunnels in on the potential threat, the only thing between you and that hammer coming down is about four pounds of pressure on the trigger. Believe me, that ain’t much.

So you’d better have some steady hands there, brother, or you could be facing a world of trouble, if you let off a round and end up shooting an innocent stone dead.

Which is why they say the Colt .45 is only for the expert user. Single action is a tricky mother and I personally know of two people who have shot themselves in the groin area because they liked to carry a single action Colt .45. To be fair, both these individuals were entirely too familiar with firearms and behaved accordingly. How can you be too familiar with firearms, you ask? Well, its easy. If you’re someone who carries and handles firearms on a daily basis, you tend to become a little blasé about them. The piece becomes just another accessory, like your wallet, keys and switchblade, that you tuck away on your person before sallying out to meet the world.

And then what happens is one day, you’re busy handling that firearm without paying too much attention and ka-boom! That strange burning sensation tells you you’ve just sent a 230 grain slug into your own leg or groin at point blank range. Very few things in the world can make a man feel more foolish than shooting himself with his own gun. That is, if he lives to tell the tale.

And this is where the customisation issue becomes a problem. Too many Colt .45 guys tend to fuck with their guns to the point where they are so fine tuned just about anything can set them off. The one unfortunate individual in question, for example, had pinned his grip safety and lightened his trigger to some insane point (I think it was under 2 pounds). This is sheer madness in a single action carry gun. Then to compound the problem, he would carry it shoved into the front of his pants, sans holster, one up, cocked and locked.

Now anyone with half a brain will tell you that this is a disaster waiting to happen. And it did. Evidently, the thumb safety must have somehow disengaged and the next time he bent over his rather ample belly gave the hammer a slight shove and it fell on a live round. The gentleman in question survived the wound mainly, he believes, because he never used hollow points. The round nose slug went through and through and he was able to summon help in time. A hollow point may well have ended it for him there and then.

Moral of the story? Don’t mess with the piece too much, particularly the trigger setting. Four pounds is the minimum setting for a carry trigger, and I personally feel that’s still too light. Although the same single action trigger means the Colt can be out and shooting in faster time than most double action autos (and with greater accuracy), it’s a serious potential liability if it’s set too light. If you shoot competition, and have your trigger set accordingly, then leave that gun in the safe when you’re prowling the mean streets. A carry gun is simply a different animal. I feel certain this is the main reason the US Armed Forces now issue the Beretta, as opposed to the 1911. A double action trigger pull allows a lot more room for error.

So why do I carry the Gov’t Model if it’s such a finicky old warhorse? The answer is complicated. First of all, the laws in my country have made it next to impossible to license a new firearm. I was in the process of licensing a Glock 21 when the Firearms Control Bill was passed and they subsequently refused that licence (along with 98% of other applicants, it seems). I may never know if the Glock 21 is the ultimate carry gun, although certainly those who profess to know these things would say that particular honour would go to the Glock 19, as the 21 is simply too large. In any event, it’s a moot point now.

My passion for the .45 ACP remains unabated however, and I would always prefer my carry gun to feature that calibre. I have looked at the Glock 30 and even test fired it. It’s a real beauty and would be almost perfect, were it not for that weird over-sized boot on the magazine, which is not ideal on the Glock, where the magazines aren’t exactly a tight fit (there is potential to pinch the hand in the gap between the magazine and gun, not ideal in a carry gun).

So until the law is changed here, which does not seem likely at this point, I will be carrying the Colt Gov’t. Model. I still feel pretty safe with it, despite the discomfort of hauling it around. The combination of my familiarity with the piece, it’s 5 inch barrel and those eight rounds of 230 grain hollow-points feel good to me when I’m venturing out after dark.

Of course, I would be far likely to carry a pistol if my carry gun was a Glock 19, or even a Glock 30, and they say the best weapon is the one you have with you at the time. But without the 2nd Amendment backing us up, we pretty much have to make do with whatever’s in the safe at this moment in time. And the way things look currently, I strongly suspect there will come a time when we’ll be backed up by edged weapons only, if the government continues along this path unchecked, which seems highly likely.

All in all, the Colt 1911 Government Model is a serious weapon, that will not fail you in your moment of need (if its been worked on by a gunsmith who knows what he’s doing). It’s also a classic that has performed well in three major conflicts. As such, it derserves no less than a 4/5.

Maxpedition M1 and PUG Wallet

I first came across the Maxpedition company when I was searching around for a Marathon SAR watch on the Net. I eventually tracked down the website of the Countycomm organisation who are the official distributors of the SAR. While I was checking out some of the nifty gear they have I came across this funky little ‘key retention system’ called a Keyper by a crowd called Maxpedition, makers of Hard Use Gear (thanks guys, I appreciate it). The Keyper looked way cool and I resolved to do some further investigation into the Maxpedition product. What I found was pretty exciting for a gear freak like myself.

Maxpedition is not exactly a household name, but for people in the know, its definitely the number one choice if you happen to be a fan of ballistic nylon products. What that be, you ask? Ballistic nylon is another one of those items that first found favour with the military and has since become the fabric of choice for people who want their bags and carry systems to perform under extreme conditions.

Ballistic nylon is basically heavy duty woven nylon (official specs have it at 1,000 denier) that offers many benefits to the demanding user. It is light but extremely tough, water-resistant, will not rot, is washable, etc etc. It’s such good stuff that everybody in the outdoor and camping industry now uses it to make hiking bags and day packs and a bunch of other stuff.

Maxpedition obviously love the stuff because they use it to make everything in their range, and they are real artists with it to boot. However, this review concerns the M1 Waistpack and PUG wallet specifically.

M1 Waistpack

The M1 Waistpack is one of the best known items in the Maxpedition range. It obviously has its origins in the military, when soldiers used to carry several of these bags hitched to their webbing to keep ammo and other oddments. Those were made of canvas and were much more simple affairs. The Maxpedition M1 takes things quite a bit further.

Let’s look at the size first. The M1 is 15cms long by 11cms wide and approximately 8 – 10cms deep. There is a main compartment that is secured by two seriously large YKK zips that you manipulate using paracord pulls. These zips are a good example of the ‘over-engineering’ that Maxpedition practises. They’re heavy duty zippers, baby, make no mistake. Inside the compartment there is one main space with two little side pockets against each wall. Fairly straight forward.

The second compartment is a little more interesting. This one has a elasticated retention system that can be adjusted with some heavy duty elasticated cord that is secured in place by one of those little spring-loaded doodads that keep your boonie hat on your head, among other things. I suppose the idea is to create a concertina system that will allow the compartment to expand to accommodate a larger item. Personally I keep my cell phone in there, so it’s not an issue for me. The outside compartment is also secured by a flap that has both velcro and a high grade snaplock to keep it from coming loose. Once again, Maxpedition go the extra mile. There are two more little hidey-holes that I haven’t mentioned. One on the outside of the flap which is a zippered compartment, good for your coins or maybe even a condom. The other one is inside the bellows compartment, and I haven’t found anything to slip into there yet, but give me time.

Finally, the M1 features a super sturdy belt loop that will take anything up to a 3 inch belt, obviously to accommodate those who have webbing to secure their britches instead of the usual 1.5 inch leather guy. Alternatively it can be used to secure your M1 to another Maxpedition pack using their patented system which employs Malice straps. It’s not something that I’ve looked into but I’m sure some people find it right handy.

So what exactly does one use the M1 for, and why buy it in the first place? Well, I find the M1 a right handy little pack to store any number of things. Currently I have my Leatherman Wave II in there, my cellphone, my ID, some toothpicks and a spare battery for my driveway gate remote control. In the summertime I also chuck some sunscreen in there. But it’s really your call. It will take an Ipod, PDA (although Maxpedition have a wallet specifically for those things, called the RAT), sunglasses (although not the Oakley M Frame type), cigarettes and lighter, torch and any number of small personal items that you may carry around with you. I was carrying my wallet around in there for a while but not since I got the PUG wallet, which I’ll get into in a bit. Although really, it’s the ideal size to caddy a wallet, particularly if you, like me, hate keeping your wallet in your back pocket, or any other pocket for that matter.

Ultimately, the M1 is an excellent alternative to the moonbag/fannypack concept. I prefer it because it doesn’t have to go around the waist. I have a couple of moonbags and I find the constant adjustment of the strap a giant pain in the ass. The M1 simply goes onto your belt, which is already adjusted to your waist size. It’s also not nearly as dorky as the moonbag, which somehow will always be associated with the 80s, like leg-warmers and crap synth-pop bands with names like Kajagoogoo.

The M1, like all Maxpedition products, is available in basic black, Marine Green (Olive Drab, baby) and khaki. I pretty much always go with black, as I think it matches the no-nonsense approach of the company.

Problems with the M1? So far, none. The thing is built like a tank, impeccably constructed and brilliantly designed. The only quibble I have – and I’m reaching here – is that they could have done away with one of the little side pockets in the main compartment. The reason being is when you are shoving things into it while on the go, they tend to catch on the lip of the pocket, which means you have to manipulate the item to get it in there (oh, behave) and that can be annoying. I think just the one pocket would have been fine for the main compartment, as there are plenty of other little hidey holes distributed throughout the thing. Maybe it’s just me, but there you go – warts and all. I would also have to say that I think the velcro on the underside of the bellows flap is a little unneccessary, but I guess it will come in handy if you neglect to snap the lock closed, which is entirely possible when you’re on the move.

All in all though, the M1 is a winner, and at $20 or so, you really can’t fault it. So it cracks a 4.5/5 and I recommend it highly to anyone who is looking for a carry system that doesn’t scream "Michael Jackson fan" to all and sundry.

PUG Wallet

First off, I don’t know what PUG stands for, or even if it is an acronym. Maybe they were just thinking of the little dog with the flat face but anyway, don’t ask me.

Now I’m not quite sure why I bought the PUG. I have a good few wallets lying around in my desk at home, in perfectly good condition, and they all fit into the M1. But I’m a wallet freak, to be sure and I am always in search of the perfect wallet. I thought I had found it, in the form of a superb offering from the Camel people. But that one was made of leather, and in tropical climates, all leather gets killed eventually. This is why I wear Maratac Zulu watchstraps and why I prefer ballistic nylon wallets. Also, the Camel one cost the same as a good daypack, whereas the PUG one was a quarter of the price.

Anyway, the PUG intrigued me, so I included it in my latest order from the good people at Triple Aught Design. This is the ultimate Internet destination for gearheads by the way, and I highly recommend their service.

The PUG is 14cms long by 9cms wide and it is constructed out of the same heavy duty ballistic nylon. It is the fold-over variety, secured by the usual strip of velcro. Now I normally detest the stuff, but in this instance, it does work, mainly because Maxpedition have sourced the best velcro out there (yes, there are different kinds of velcro, and most of it crap). I don’t know how long it will last however, but we’ll see. I have a feeling that Maxpedition will replace it, if it does ever wear out. I’m pretty sure there products are guaranteed for life – they’re that kind of company.

The main improvements that Maxpedition have introduced to this type of wallet is first of all the heavy duty nature of the thing – this is one serious wallet, man. It has two main compartments for paper money that are really substantial. They will comfortably take currency, folded up A4 size sheets of paper (like the phone and lights bill for example) and whatever other bits of paper that always seem to accumulate in vast quantities in your wallet. The compartments are divided by a wall of netting, for some reason (maybe so your money can breathe more easily, I don’t know. Not that my money gets a chance to draw breath.).

You then get to your card compartments, of which there are two. There is enough space to take six cards, but really, the pockets are so ample you can actually fit about 12 in there, if you’re a real plastic junkie. The front one on the left is a plastic window, which would be where your driver’s licence goes. Both card holding sections are secured by little velcro tabs that do the job adequately enough (hey, I just don’t like the stuff).

There’s one other item within the wallet that I haven’t found a use for. It’s one of Maxpedition’s cool little key clips (like the one you find on the Keyper) and I guess it must be for keys. However, they would need to be fairly small keys, of the sort that opens padlocks, etc, otherwise they would bulk up your wallet considerably, and make it fairly difficult to close. As it is, the key clip adds a fair bit of bulk to the wallet and makes it a little more difficult to close, particularly when you have a big bundle of notes in there (for like, the first day of the month). It also makes it awkward to get your cash out in a hurry, so I’m not entirely sold on the idea of it.

I’m pretty sure there are people who use their key clip, and I’m gonna slap a key on it one of these days, but I generally prefer to keep all my keys together, on my belt, hanging from my groovy Marine Green Keyper.

Anyway, its not a train smash, although it did occur to me that the clip could have one other
purpose, which is to serve as a retention system to your belt. So if you’re travelling or whatever, and simply prefer to keep your wallet in a cargo pants pocket rather than on your belt, you can quickly rig up a paracord line that will keep your wallet attached to your person, just in case a pickpocket happens to choose you as his mark.

I think this is especially useful when travelling on planes, where you won’t want to have the wallet on your belt (it’s hard enough to sleep on a plane without a wallet digging into your kidneys). I’m actually going to drop Maxpedition a line and get their thoughts on this, they might have a completely different take on it. I’ll let you know.

There’s one other item on the PUG which is somewhat controversial in my eyes. Controversial because I can see the need for one, but the chaps have really gone overboard on this one. I’m talking about a change purse. Now, I always preferred wallets with change purses but I think they should be on the discreet side. The one on the Maxpedition PUG is anything but. It’s a real giant and quite frankly, I can’t see the need for something so large. It adds considerably to the bulk of the PUG and I think it’s a case of overkill. It doesn’t close properly either, if you really want to get picky, due to a design hitch. The PUG is also able to be worn on the belt, which is cool if you don’t like carrying your wallet in your pocket, and to be honest, this wallet is a little large for most pockets, unless you have cargo pockets on all your pants, which I do.

All in all the PUG is a cool design but it’s let down by that rather unneccessary change purse that’s attached to it. I feel that they could offer you the option of a change purse, or not, depending on your needs. The wallet would really rock without the change purse, and be a far slimmer design to boot. But at this time, its only available with it, so it’s your call.

It’s not as cool as the M1, and it could have been executed with a slightly more user-friendly design, so all in all, I’ll give this puppy a 3 1/2 out of 5.

Thanks for reading.

Spyderco Para-Military

Spyderco Para-Military

Here’s one that should be a classic one day and it really is a winner, except for one major flaw that shouldn’t even be there. What is it? Well, read on and find out, pilgrim!

Spyderco should be a name familiar to anyone who’s ever owned more than one blade. The first so-called ‘tactical’ knife I ever owned was a Spyderco.

(Just a quick aside on this ‘tactical’ business. It’s a term that’s become almost meaningless in the knife (and gun) world and I suspect most military people who might actually really need a tactical knife probably find it pretty funny the way the term is bandied about by every knife-maker under the sun these days. In any event, as I understand it, a tactical blade is one that adheres strictly to the ‘form follows function’ tenet. In other words, there is nothing extra on it that might be construed as design for design sake. People also like to call it a tactical blade if it has some form of coating on the blade to prevent the reflection of light off the steel. However, a blade that doesn’t have a matte black coating or a bead-blasted finish can still be a tactical blade. I know, it's as clear as mud. Basically, I suspect that It is really just another way for people to make money from wannabe martial artists out there who want to carry a blade that looks real scary and mean but don’t want to actually go through the schlep of learning the martial arts. Hey, that’s cool, man. Whatever slices your apple. At the end of the day, a well-made knife, with properly tempered steel, will still slice the bejesus out of someone if it’s used properly, whether it’s ‘tactical’ or not.)

In any event, the Spyderco company were pioneers in this area, particularly with regards to the one-handed opening device which has become their trademark (I’m talking about the Spyder hole of course). One particularly memorable example of this is a scary-looking blade of theirs called the Civilian, which is actually a misnomer, being as the Civilian was originally intended for a certain law enforcement agency who specialised in undercover work (I believe it was the DEA but I might be wrong) and who therefore couldn’t carry firearms but still wanted a weapon that could do the business if necessary but also had a very low profile when carried. The Civilian is certainly that and is obviously a blade designed for one purpose only. Not something that could be misconstrued as a little old pocket knife for whittling the odd stick by any means. Spyderco weren’t the only pioneers of self-defence edged weapons. The Benchmade crew were also there from the get-go with their balisongs and blades like the Leopard from Pat Crawford and the AFCK, but this review concerns Spyderco, sooo….

Where were we? Oh yeah, tactical blades. In this department I would say that Spyderco have the Big Three, being the Civilian, the Police and the Military (I don’t know about the Chinook, but maybe it should in there as well, so OK, the Big Four). Now, the Military was a real eye-opener for a lot of people interested in hard use knives. For those not familiar with it, this is a big ol’ blade, with a lot of handle and a real nice blade with a very practical and aggressive cutting edge. I was one of the first converts and ordered mine hot off the factory floor. Unfortunately, Sal and the boys released the thing a little prematurely and hadn’t ironed out one or two little issues when I got mine. They weren’t major problems, but for a demanding fellow like myself, they were enough to see me give the Military I bought the old heave-ho after a month or two. Now of course I wished I’d kept it because its probably worth quite a bit on the old e-bay collector’s market but hindsight is 20/20, as they say.

In any event, Spyderco kept improving their Military and the latest version features an improved liner lock, stainless steel screws and the awesome cutting abilities of S30V steel.
Which bring us to the subject at hand, the Military’s little brother, the Para-Military. This knife was introduced by Spyderco back in 2004 after several requests for a smaller version of the Military that didn’t sacrifice cutting power. Clearly there are plenty of people out there that enjoy the design of the Military but don’t feel the need to tote such a big blade every day. So Sal did his homework and produced the Para-Military, and a very nice little blade it is too.

The Para-Military resembles the Military in every way, except in a smaller package. The handle is exactly 12 cms long, which amounts to 4,7 inches. The cutting edge of the blade is 7,5cm, which comes to 2,95 inches.
However, there are two significant differences. The first is that it employs a compression lock, as opposed to the spring leaf, or liner lock, that you find on the Military. Now this is the first encounter that I have had with the compression lock and I was a bit nervous about it. To no avail, as it turned out, as the lock has performed well and there are no complaints in that department. Certainly though, I haven’t bashed the crap out of it to test its strength (this is my personal knife after all) but in the kind of tasks it has been expected to perform (cutting twine, rope, cardboard, plastic, sandwiches, etc) it has performed admirably. I doubt it would fail unless it was seriously abused, and I really believe that if you expect to put a knife under that kind of strain, you’d be better off with a fixed blade anyway.

The other major difference is the serration of the blade. It is markedly more ‘aggressive’than the Military. In other words the serrations are deeper and more pronounced than on its bigger brother. This may have been done in order to make up for the reduced cutting edge but I’m not entirely certain about that. Suffice to say that it is a ‘mean-ass’ serration and it cuts like a sonofabitch out of the box.

I ordered mine from the good people at KnifeWorks and after I’d played with it for a while I tested it on the box that the merchandise was shipped in. It made short work of the fairly substantial cardboard and I didn’t sharpen it for some time after that. (In fact, I ended up having to order a Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker from KnifeWorks so that I could sharpen it but that’s another story).

The Para is almost the perfect fit in my hand and for this reason it has become my every day carry knife. Once I had overcome the problem of keeping the blade sharp (and the Tri-Angle Sharpmaker does that perfectly) it quickly became one of my favourite blades. Not only does it fit my hand well but it’s incredibly light (108 grams or 3.75 oz, according to the Spyderco website). And anyone who carries a blade on a daily basis will tell you that this is a major factor when deciding which blade you will be slipping into your pocket.

Apart from that, it just looks great, it’s got a lovely balance and the little Spyderco logo on the blade just to the left of the Spyder hole is totally cool. A word on that Spyder hole – it’s still on the large side, as was the original hole for the Military. This was in order to allow for easy manipulation when wearing gloves. No, not gardening gloves, the black, flame-retardant kind that practioners of the black arts tend to favour. This is, after all, a ‘tactical’ blade.

So you’re probably thinking that I kind of dig my Para. Well, yes, I do. It gets carried more than any of my other knives, including some very fancy custom folders by the likes of Greg Lightfoot and Brian Tighe costing four times as much. I know you’re sensing a ‘but’ in there and unfortunately there is one. More upsettingly though, is that it could have been so easily corrected by Sal and co, and I sincerely hope that this little correspondence of mine goes some way towards helping to ensure that this problem does not re-occur in the future. The problem lies not with the knife, however, but with the clip. Yup, that little-heralded but oh-so important item which can either make or break a good blade.

What’s the big deal, you ask? Surely a clip is a clip is a clip. Well, no. I have about seven folders and each one has a different clip design on it, ranging from highly successful to dismal. Unfortunately the Spyderco one is right near the bottom. The best is probably by Emerson, followed by Cold Steel, then Allen Elishewitz, Brian Tighe, Greg Lightfoot (although I think he’s changed his, based on the most recent pics I’ve seen), Benchmade (although mine – the Leopard - is an early BM, around eight to ten years old) and finally Spyderco.

The problem is the edges are too damn sharp on the thing. I brushed up against a colleague’s car shortly after getting the knife and the thing scraped the hell out of the door. She wasn’t impressed, let me tell you. It’s just uncomfortable to hold, not impressive to look at and sure as hell out of place on a knife that Sal and Co recommend should retail at around $180 (not that I paid that much, but anyway). The black coating on the clip works well and is a good thing for a low profile carry blade but the clip itself feels like a liitle mini-blade attached to the back of the knife. No, Sal... no, no, no, no! The number one criteria of a hand tool is that it should be free of sharp edges (well, not entirely free in this case, but you get my drift). This is something the gun community learnt very early on and you’d think the information would have filtered on down to the folks at Spyderco, whom I feel fairly certain are strong supporters of the 2nd Amendment. Apparently not, though.

Despite that, I like the Para-Military so much I’m actually going to pick up the full size Military at some point, and it will be the knife I plan to tote on most weekends. I’m really hoping that they will have taken care of this clip story by then. If not, you can rest assured I will take this up with Sal himself. There really is no reason for a sub-standard clip to bring down a really cool knife like the Para-Military.

For this reason alone, it has to get a 4/5. Sorry, Sal, but there really is no excuse.

Leatherman Wave II

OK, here it is, my first Big Review.

The one I've been itching to do, hell, quite possibly the whole reason I started this thing, is the Leatherman Wave II.

First though, a little history. I got my first Leatherman some years back (I forget how many). It was a SuperTool, the first generation and it was a beautiful piece of shiny steel. I got it from an epic knife shop in my home town that no longer exists called Barry's Blades and Outdoor Adventures. This place was like the gadget freak's paradise and buying that Leatherman was a serious decision. I must have spent like ten hours in that place checking out all the multi-tools. I had plenty of knives but that was my first multi-tool, so it was a BIG decision.

Anyway, I actually ended up going with a SOG multitool. BIG mistake! I had it for a few days and realised it was a lemon and asked if I could trade it for a SuperTool. Being the gentleman that he is, Barry said OK so I got the SuperTool and Barry slapped an awesome lanyard on it for me, made of lumo green and yellow paracord. I had the leather sheath and the whole ensemble rocked like a SOB. Needless to say, within a month or two my daypack got stolen out of my car and the SuperTool vanished into the mist. Now, I never lose shit, so this was a major disaster. Anyway, I got over it but for one reason or another, I didn't replace the SuperTool straight away. I think I got a Swiss Champ instead, but that's another story.

To cut what's shaping up to be a long one short, the Wave was eventually released by Leatherman and of course it turned everyone on its ear. Here was a multitool that could be opened with one hand! Hot damn. Of course, the Wave broke all records and it was a pretty damn great multitool, maybe the best ever. Naturally though, Leatherman could not sit still. They had to come out with an even better Wave. So they went ahead and produced the Wave II. I looked at it when it came out recently and it looked pretty good to me. It had the same basic set-up but these tools locked into place. Major improvement. It also had this nifty little bit kit that meant the whole set-up could be extended to increase its versatility.

Man, I was sold. I got onto Amazon and ordered the sucker, with a leather pouch that looked real fancy in the picture. The thing took forever to arrive due to the rather inept crowd I ordered it from but eventually the postman dropped off that little white slip and off I went to the PO. I was a pretty excited dude.

I've had the Wave II for a few months now and this is my take on it. Apart from the locking tools, I have to say its something of a disappointment. Why? Well, for a start, the damn thing is heavy, man. Its a real drag on the old belt. It's chunkier than the first Wave and a good bit heavier. Now don't say you should've got the Charge because that's titanium and therefore lighter. I checked that shit out, and it's only a few grams difference.

Don't ask me why it's so much heavier. If I wanted a heavy mother, I would've got the SuperTool 200 (which I think maybe I should have, but I'm not a goddamn plumber, I'm a copywriter...). Then there's the lanyard thing. The first Wave had a perfectly good lanyard ring attached to it. This one, you've got to buy the lanyard ring as an optional extra. What's up with that, Tim?
Isn't it enough we pay $75 for the doodad, now we've got to outlay another $4.99 for the lanyard and pocket clip which is pretty useless anyway. You put this chunk of steel in your pocket and your pants will be hanging around your ankles, man!

So that's a big minus. Finally, that little old bit kit I mentioned? Well, I still haven't got one. I've already got a couple of sets of minature screwdrivers so I keep asking myself, do I really want to outlay another $15 for this action and the answer keeps coming back, No, I don't! Someone's going to have to buy that thing for me as a present, cos I just don't feel like its worth the extra dough.

One more issue. I don't know what steel they've used on this thing for the blade but it's got a crapload of carbon in it. That's great for keeping it sharp, but it ain't so grand for keeping the rust from starting up at the drop of a hat. And for what is meant to be a hardworking tool as opposed to a fancy blade that you mollycoddle, that's a pretty bad choice. Next time, Tim, slap some more nickel into that mother! I don't like rust, it gives me the creeps.

I always carry a primary blade which is shaving sharp, I don't need my Leatherman to be that sharp, it just has to function as a back-up in case I left my primary blade at home. I suspect that's the case with most Leatherman users. If you carry one tool, you're fairly likely to have another on your person somewhere.

Anyhoo, that's my take on the Wave II. It ain't all bad, but its a long way from perfect. I don't know if I should have paid the extra dough for the Charge but they're essentially the same tool except the Charge has a better blade steel and its a smidgen lighter. Not sure if its worth the extra loot and there's still that lanyard ring to deal with...

On a more positive note, the new scissors kick ass, so way to go on that score.

All in all, it gets a 3/5. Sorry, Timbo, but that's the way its gotta be.

Thanks for reading.