Alpha Industries CWU/45P
Alpha Industries is a legendary name in the milspec arena and has been a consistent supplier to the US military since the early 1950s.
They first came to prominence in the post WWII era, where the call came down to develop a lighter, less bulky version of the fleece-lined leather ‘bomber’ jackets that pilots wore to keep out the cold. The new jets being developed were reaching far greater heights and any water or perspiration would be likely to freeze on the leather, adding considerable weight to the jacket and creating all sorts of problems for the wearer.
The new material that was chosen to replace leather was nylon, a relatively recent invention that offered the strength and warmth that such a garment demanded, combined with a considerably lighter weight.
The design that emerged was first designated B-15, and was very similar to that of the design which directly followed it - the MA-1 – except that the B15 had a mouton fur collar. After a few years, the collar was changed and the MA-1 as we know it took its place.
A true classic that is still an icon among followers of milspec design, the MA-1’s ribbed, knit cuffs and collar, indian orange lining and cigarette sleeve pocket design defined the look of the nylon flight jacket forever.
Their MA1 jacket is an enduring classic that continues to be popular, both with airforce personnel and civilians, five decades after they were first issued. However this review concerns the current version of the MA-1, the CWU-45P.
The CWU-45P was first issued in 1973 after specifications called for a jacket utilising a fire-retardent fabric (which nylon obviously is not). The design developed by Alpha featured the Nomex fire-resistant fabric and had several other distinct differences to the MA-1. Althought the Nomex version is available to the general public, its prohibitive price means that the nylon ‘civilian’ version is the overwhelming choice for most people.
There were other changes as well. The jacket now featured two large, ‘map-style’ pockets on the front, similar to that of the classic A-2 leather flyer’s jackets made popular during world war II. There was no side entry to the pocket, largely because airforce personnel are not encouraged to stand around with their hands in their pockets. The pockets feature a flap that is secured by velcro tabs and are roomy enough to store fairly large objects.
The other fundamental changes were the inclusion of a standard folded collar of the same nylon as the rest of the jacket, as opposed to the short knitted collar of the MA-1. The lining of the CWU-45P is also quilted, and the same colour as the jacket, with the indian orange lining going the way of the dinosaur. Presumably, modern pilots have more sophisticated ways of making contact with search and rescue personnel. One would also imagine that if they went down in hostile territory, they would prefer not to stand out like sore thumbs.
The cigarette pocket on the left sleeve is still there, as are the famous ‘bullet’ pen caps. There is one extra inner pocket sewn onto the left lining. The Alpha Industries label is sewn onto the back of the inside lining of the jacket, centrally positioned directly below the collar. There is another specification label lower down, which is the same colour as the jacket. The little Alpha ‘flag’ is still there on the cigarette pocket. Mine also came with a red nylon tag attached to the cigarette pocket zipper that reads ‘detach before flying’, a nice touch.
Colour options include black, navy blue, sage and gun metal. Mine is in the classic sage. The quality of the product is quite superb. All the stitching is precise and there are no stray threads to be seen. The nylon is undoubtedly of the finest quality and features the trademark sheen of a genuine Alpha Industries jacket, much like an otter’s fur when it is slick with water. The other distinctive ‘feature; is the rouged effect of the nylon on the stitched seam, which also is a characteristic of the genuine Alpha product.
The reference to ‘genuine’ Alpha Industries is not made casually. This jacket has been copied and pirated the world over and it is definitely a case of ‘buyer beware’ when you are looking around for one. The design is such an enduring classic (especially the MA-1) that it is knocked off in the thousands in the far east and has found favour around the globe, particularly among security industry types and the skinhead factions (the military connection obviously appeals to both). Do not take a chance when you buy yours. Visit the Alpha Industries website (google will help you get there) and they will direct you to authorised Alpha retailers. There are many, so procuring yourself the real article will not be a problem.
What exactly is it about this design that has made it such an enduringly popular choice among appreciators of functional clothing? Well, for one thing, the CWU-45P is damned stylish. The purely functional design means there is nothing there that shouldn’t be there and the overall effect is that of a jet fighter – sleek, trim and ready for anything that comes its way.
Secondly, it fulfils the purpose for which it was created: keeping the wearer warm. So many leather jackets, though stylish, fail miserably to keep you warm when the weather gets seriously chilly. The design of the jacket, with the ribbed waist and cuffs, is intended to retain body heat, and it does exactly that, without the heavy weight and water vulnerability of leather.
The main question really, is whether you prefer the classic MA-1, or the more modern version? It depends whether you find the Spitfire more glamourous than the F-18 – it’s a personal preference. Mine is for the CWU-45P. I prefer the nylon collar over the knitted version of the MA-1, which I find can be a little too warm on those days when you’re not strolling about in an actual blizzard. On the flipside, you do miss the handy pockets of the MA-1 (hey, I’m not in the airforce), although the map-style pockets of the CWU-45P are better structured to retain their contents and will hold a lot more.
To be honest, these jackets are so awesome, it’s worth owning both styles, and throw in a N3-B parka for those Siberia trips while you’re at it. All in all the CWU-45P is a true classic, proven in the field of battle, and therefore deserves a righteous 5/5.
They first came to prominence in the post WWII era, where the call came down to develop a lighter, less bulky version of the fleece-lined leather ‘bomber’ jackets that pilots wore to keep out the cold. The new jets being developed were reaching far greater heights and any water or perspiration would be likely to freeze on the leather, adding considerable weight to the jacket and creating all sorts of problems for the wearer.
The new material that was chosen to replace leather was nylon, a relatively recent invention that offered the strength and warmth that such a garment demanded, combined with a considerably lighter weight.
The design that emerged was first designated B-15, and was very similar to that of the design which directly followed it - the MA-1 – except that the B15 had a mouton fur collar. After a few years, the collar was changed and the MA-1 as we know it took its place.
A true classic that is still an icon among followers of milspec design, the MA-1’s ribbed, knit cuffs and collar, indian orange lining and cigarette sleeve pocket design defined the look of the nylon flight jacket forever.
Their MA1 jacket is an enduring classic that continues to be popular, both with airforce personnel and civilians, five decades after they were first issued. However this review concerns the current version of the MA-1, the CWU-45P.
The CWU-45P was first issued in 1973 after specifications called for a jacket utilising a fire-retardent fabric (which nylon obviously is not). The design developed by Alpha featured the Nomex fire-resistant fabric and had several other distinct differences to the MA-1. Althought the Nomex version is available to the general public, its prohibitive price means that the nylon ‘civilian’ version is the overwhelming choice for most people.
There were other changes as well. The jacket now featured two large, ‘map-style’ pockets on the front, similar to that of the classic A-2 leather flyer’s jackets made popular during world war II. There was no side entry to the pocket, largely because airforce personnel are not encouraged to stand around with their hands in their pockets. The pockets feature a flap that is secured by velcro tabs and are roomy enough to store fairly large objects.
The other fundamental changes were the inclusion of a standard folded collar of the same nylon as the rest of the jacket, as opposed to the short knitted collar of the MA-1. The lining of the CWU-45P is also quilted, and the same colour as the jacket, with the indian orange lining going the way of the dinosaur. Presumably, modern pilots have more sophisticated ways of making contact with search and rescue personnel. One would also imagine that if they went down in hostile territory, they would prefer not to stand out like sore thumbs.
The cigarette pocket on the left sleeve is still there, as are the famous ‘bullet’ pen caps. There is one extra inner pocket sewn onto the left lining. The Alpha Industries label is sewn onto the back of the inside lining of the jacket, centrally positioned directly below the collar. There is another specification label lower down, which is the same colour as the jacket. The little Alpha ‘flag’ is still there on the cigarette pocket. Mine also came with a red nylon tag attached to the cigarette pocket zipper that reads ‘detach before flying’, a nice touch.
Colour options include black, navy blue, sage and gun metal. Mine is in the classic sage. The quality of the product is quite superb. All the stitching is precise and there are no stray threads to be seen. The nylon is undoubtedly of the finest quality and features the trademark sheen of a genuine Alpha Industries jacket, much like an otter’s fur when it is slick with water. The other distinctive ‘feature; is the rouged effect of the nylon on the stitched seam, which also is a characteristic of the genuine Alpha product.
The reference to ‘genuine’ Alpha Industries is not made casually. This jacket has been copied and pirated the world over and it is definitely a case of ‘buyer beware’ when you are looking around for one. The design is such an enduring classic (especially the MA-1) that it is knocked off in the thousands in the far east and has found favour around the globe, particularly among security industry types and the skinhead factions (the military connection obviously appeals to both). Do not take a chance when you buy yours. Visit the Alpha Industries website (google will help you get there) and they will direct you to authorised Alpha retailers. There are many, so procuring yourself the real article will not be a problem.
What exactly is it about this design that has made it such an enduringly popular choice among appreciators of functional clothing? Well, for one thing, the CWU-45P is damned stylish. The purely functional design means there is nothing there that shouldn’t be there and the overall effect is that of a jet fighter – sleek, trim and ready for anything that comes its way.
Secondly, it fulfils the purpose for which it was created: keeping the wearer warm. So many leather jackets, though stylish, fail miserably to keep you warm when the weather gets seriously chilly. The design of the jacket, with the ribbed waist and cuffs, is intended to retain body heat, and it does exactly that, without the heavy weight and water vulnerability of leather.
The main question really, is whether you prefer the classic MA-1, or the more modern version? It depends whether you find the Spitfire more glamourous than the F-18 – it’s a personal preference. Mine is for the CWU-45P. I prefer the nylon collar over the knitted version of the MA-1, which I find can be a little too warm on those days when you’re not strolling about in an actual blizzard. On the flipside, you do miss the handy pockets of the MA-1 (hey, I’m not in the airforce), although the map-style pockets of the CWU-45P are better structured to retain their contents and will hold a lot more.
To be honest, these jackets are so awesome, it’s worth owning both styles, and throw in a N3-B parka for those Siberia trips while you’re at it. All in all the CWU-45P is a true classic, proven in the field of battle, and therefore deserves a righteous 5/5.
posted by Mark Crozier at 1:39 AM
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